Cruising Log of Sadler 34 Misty – July 2024
Winner of the Lismore Light Trophy
Tuesday 2nd July Forecast – WSW 3-4 Oban HW 15:58
Plan – Fort William to Linnhe Marine
We have booked the whole of July off to take Misty to the Outer Isles, and although we were caught in Edinburgh up to the 1st July, at last we are off, loaded to the gunnels with victuals to ensure we do not starve. Michael had many trips between car and boat at the West End carpark pontoons while Viola stowed in the bilges and cupboards, making lists of what was where. We were bringing our fold up bikes as well as both spinnaker and cruising shoot. We had to work fast to ensure we could use the last of the ebb tide at Corran. The wind was on the nose so we motorsailed for best VMG then once through Corran enjoyed a beat to the pontoon at Linnhe Marine, arriving at 20:34. Supper was finishing our courgettes with Halloumi, and choc mousse.
Then on Whats App we spotted a plea from Marian for replacement crew for the Round the Isle of Mull race. What an opportunity to learn about passage racing in a yacht! We applied and were accepted, with instructions to attend the welcome buffet on behalf of Scintilla on the evening of the 4th. Forecast looks bad tomorrow but better on Thu so we will have a leisurely start.
Wednesday 3rd July Forecast SE 3-4 > W c.14:00 5-6 Oban HW 16:52
Plan – Leisurely day, changed to passage to Oban.
Started the day with lovely showers and taking on 15 lts Diesel and 3/4 tank of water. Then discussions with manager lead to realisation that the bad weather now for Thursday so we should get going PDQ. Lesson learnt: Always listen to the 7.10 forecast! 15lts diesel, ¾ tank water. As tide was low we asked about the depths of southern exit and were assured that there would be no problem. We were never lower than 3.8.
We had a lovely beat with 2 reefs but full genoa through the Lyn of Lorne with Misty beautifully balanced and responsive. We think that keeping genoa all the way out is a good way to go. Thinking ahead where were we to leave her while moonlighting on Scintilla. We rang Kerrera but they were full. We decided to investigate the Community Moorings off the Oban sailing club, and then the Oban Pontoons. Luckily at 2pm there were several Community moorings free just off the landing pontoon so hand for landing, club and town and at reasonable rates. The wind was steadily increasing so very glad we were not having to anchor. We took a brief walk ashore with an eye to finding a bicycle helmet as we had forgotten those. The climbing helmet would do for Michael but something was needed for Viola. However all shops were closed and nothing in the supermarket. Supper was chicken with Stronaba peas and beans, and cream.
Thursday 4th July Forecast W 5-6
Plan – stay on mooring with trip onshore
It was a bit of a bouncy night but all was well. Went ashore to go to swimming pool for exercise and showers – it was really nice and had a good soft play area. Got some mince from the butcher – who had a definite borders accent. Found a lovely red helmet at bike shop. Went 2nd hand book shopping and got WH Murray classics of Mountaineering in Scotland and Undiscovered Scotland, which Michael felt was an essential for the boat, also Edinburgh by David Daiche and Mairi Hedderwick’s Hebrides.
An enormous, rather military looking boat with a helicopter moored in the bay to keep out of the winds. On investigation she was Norn, belonging to Microsoft Charles Simonyi, mastermind of Word and Excel. Not beautiful, but very large. Her landing craft got blared at by CalMac.
We went to the buffet but did not find it easy to meet people – lots of old friends excited at meeting up so not surprising really. We did briefly meet Alastair of Marisa, a Contessa 32 and rival of Scintilla, and Eric and Irena of Amazing seafood spread and we were pressed to take away some of the left over chicken legs for Scintilla.
Friday 5th to Sunday 7th – on Scintilla of the Seas
Monday 8th July
Forecast W > NW 3-4, then backing E 3-6 Oban HW 08:08
The wind would be on the nose for Tobermory but we wanted to be on our way through the Sound of Mull, rather than via Iona. The tides would not assist until the afternoon so we went shopping for fresh provisions in the morning in a leisurely way. Then off North.
A good initial fetch with one reef south of Lismore but the wind died as we entered the Sound. We saw 4 lots of porpoises feeding around the entrance. Now we had to start the motor and we were really grateful for the 1 knot plus of tide assisting! As usual we had trouble spotting the Captains’ House as it is nearer Tobermory than one expects.
There were visitors moorings available at Tobermory so we were very close to the waterfall in the centre, watching cormorants come and go in the evening light. Went ashore for a shower (£2 for 7 mins) but decided too early for a wash (£4). We went up to the hotel overlooking the bay then back along the elevated high street and down some overgrown stairs. Curry with coconut and beans.
Tuesday 9th July
Forecast ENE 3-4, backing Oban HW 08:49, 20:55
Plan – Tobermory to Canna
After a peaceful night we heard the forecast at 7:15 and having checked there were no strong tides left in no wind and motored to Ard Point. Just before 10:30 the wind arrived from the North and we released the sail before Ardnamurchan Point. The wind increased steadily on our very enjoyable fetch to the west of Rum so we put in first one reef, then two. The hills of Rum we spectacular, and there was a feature that looked a bit like a runway. Then some imposing cliffs. Then of course the wind began to die so at 1:30 we were back to full sail as we approached the north of Rum and got Canna in view. Our house batteries, which we had hoped would do one more season, were getting very low with the fridge so as the wind died away Michael was delighted to motor to get them back on charge.
There were many boats in Canna bay so no chance of a mooring. We were mindful of the warnings about kelp but there was a decent space fairly central. We put on a anchor buoy to assist with lift and this was a bit putting off to other yachts which kept arriving through the afternoon. Viola was worried that the transits were shifting but Michael calmly reassured and was proved right. Sausages with last of Stronaba potatoes.
Wednesday 10th July Forecast good
Plan – day on Canna
We did not have much of a plan except to go high. A picnic was prepared and we set off, leaving boots and life jackets in the dinghy on the pier. They are restoring Canna house and there were many air conditioned containers to preserve the library and artifacts close to the pier, with a generator. At least a year to go before the house will be completed. We started by just going up, skirting the crags just behind the church and house. It was hard going over heather and bracken, no hint of even a sheep path, and then we arrived on a plateau, with our first excellent signal, courtesy of CalMac. We continued west looking for Souterrains just before the ‘waist’ of the island and eventually found them, with intriguing chinks we could not really see into. Hips getting pretty sore so we turned south to the road where there was a very horned mother and calf, which we skirted to find a good picnic spot, enjoying some sun and scenery from the side of the path. This we followed back, seeing an impressive eagle and where it landed on a cliff.
After a rest back on the boat we went back ashore to have dinner at Café Canna at 6:30. They were very busy so we ate outside, well wrapped up, and had a delicious Bourride. We fell into conversation with another couple waiting for their table at 8pm, Steve and Mary Bedford, who sail a Starlight in the NW in the summer and in the winter live in Emsworth so it turns out they know some of our fellow Osprey sailors.
Thursday 11th July Forecast F4 N-NNE Stornaway HW 11:16
Plan – Canna to Castlebay
Set off round the north of Canna as too many obstacles to the south. We expected the tide to drift us northwards so steered 225. It was F3-4 to start on a broad reach but as it got friskier we went down to just genoa to reduce rolling. Battery was worryingly low so ran for a hour to boost. Thermosed hot water allowed for keeping up morale with a quick hot drink. Wind went more north so up with the main and then to motor sailing in. Spotted dolphins and reported online. We had a lovely welcome at Barra marina and then met the Bedfords coming in. After sharing 2 bottles we agreed to also share food aboard their Starlight ‘Shearwater’ and also quite a lot more wine! Slept very well considering!
Friday 12th July Forecast To get wet and windy
Plan – day on Barra
We started by getting a wash done while we shopped in Co-op and then threaded complex lines in the cabin to attempt to dry it all. Out with the folding bikes for the first time and we set off clockwise. An hour in we spotted the Grean Seafood Shack – and what a find! Cajun Monkfish for Viola and Scallop and black pudding fritters for Michael, consumed in the light rain – delicious. Run by 2 ex nursery workers who had fisherman husbands and wanted a change. Despite the weather they had steady custom. One family were super prepared and got a pop-up tent out to eat in. Rain increasing so we only went as far towards the airport to say we had seen the runway before turning back and having to tackle hills on the east side. We were back at Castlebay in no time and once clean went in search of Barra Gin and fresh bread to go with Grean Langoustines. Evening spent planning our route north, and sadly realising that we might not have time to get to Harris/Lewis if we wanted to explore places en-route. Especially with bad weather possibly coming our way.
Saturday 13th July Forecast N-NE 3-5 or 6 Oban HW 11:15
Plan – Castlebay to Acarsaig Mor, Eriskay
The strong northerly meant we had abandoned plans to go and sail round Pabbay and Mingulay. As it was it was a fierce beat to windward with limited visibility. However she was wonderfully balanced with 2 reefs in main and one rolled in genoa making it an enjoyable sail. Indeed we overstood and have to bear away to get into Acarsaig Mor. It took 3 attempts to be satisfied with our anchoring, using a tripping line, but we felt the need to be well sited for the next 36 hours of strong winds. We were going to meet up with Arbuthnots on the Sunday but non-existent phone signal made this quite hard without walking to the main village. We actually met Arbu on the road and made a plan involving their boat. Then ice-creams from a wonderful Aladdin’s cave of a shop, and strong winds on the highest peak whilst enjoying the views. Kohl rabi, stingless beans, prawns with chili & garlic for ace supper.
Sunday 14th July
Plan – day on Eriskay, lunch with Arbuthnots
We started the day with cleaning Misty inside and out, ready for possible inspection! Surroundings were a bit industrial with fishing boats and holiday cottages. Several Eriskay ponies spotted. Then on the pontoon we spotted one Sunday garbed Arbuthnot so went to collect him in Foggy for a coffee. As the weather was a bit wild for picnics in boats Charles drove us to 3B West Kilbride croft, their beautiful wooded modern house that they have built, with views one can only dream of! Most hospitably they offered us a luxurious shower to begin with – really appreciated! A delicious lunch, catching up on lots of news, and watching Norn, the super yacht we had first seen in Oban Bay. We were driven back to Misty and correspondence with Lochmaddy re pontoon booking. Another Starlight came in and anchored next us. Viola called out ‘lovely boat!’ and next thing we were invited to drinks by the Tynalls! We took a bottle, and both it and one of theirs vanished quickly – this level of drinking is something of a surprise! First of tinned provisions for supper – M&S beef with potatoes, carrots and sugar snaps.
Monday 15th July Forecast NW variable, then SW3 Oban HW 13:13
Plan – Eriskay to Loch Boisdale
Tripping lines work! Definitely made retrieval easier. We left just before the Tynalls. The winds started light and we felt the pressure to make sure we stayed ahead! But the wind died so engine on. Battery grateful. Loch Boisdale is a very nice marina – well laid out with showers included in fee but some distance from any shops. So out with the bikes and off to Daliburgh Co-op and then over the machair to a gorgeous beach where we sat absorbing rare sunshine and caught up with emails, before walking along the beach and foraging sea spinach. On our return a boat from the south coast doing a whistle stop tour of the Hebrides said they had spotted a hump backed whale! We are happy with our slower pace. Local hot smoked salmon with sea spinach was superb, followed by strawberries, bananas and cream.
Tuesday 16th July Forecast NW ->SW 2-4 Stornaway HW 16:09 Loch Skipport HW 15:20
Plan – Loch Boisdale to Loch Skipport.
Started the day with very nice showers and all rubbish taken off the boat. Viola helmed reversing out of finger – improving. Strange winds – variable as forecast, sometimes 3 knots then sudden 17 knot gusts. A Drascombe was inland, but never close enough to hail. We heard a Mayday call from the Shetland end only, a motoring yacht taking on water. It was 30 miles away and several vessels responded so we continued on our way. It turned out that if they stopped motoring the water stopped coming in so we suspect leaking exhaust pipe, as we once had. Loch Skipport was easy to find and we anchored in the wizard pool. Just us until late afternoon when 4 others arrived. We walked round the nearest island and discovered it had 4G and excellent phone reception – necessary as IQX called with a major client problem. Unable to get hold of Macdonalds re rough plan for dinner on the morrow. Mint & garlic lamb with courgettes.
Wednesday 17th July Forecast wet
Plan – day on South Uist
Woke quite fresh and intending to climb Hecla/Theada. Took Foggy to mainland avoiding gleeful swimmers. It was fun but tough going over thigh high heather and dryish bog or scrambling up granite outcrops. Sadly rain and mist came down as we reached Beinn na H-aire but we were quite happy to have got there so turned back without regret. Got back to Misty for a delicious salad lunch, washes and then a very peaceful afternoon. Limited communications saying their boat was delayed getting back from Pabbay and earliest they could collect was 9pm. We thought of the dark, the wind and rain and tiny Foggy searching for the landing point or returning to Misty, and sent our apologies. Omlettes with a glass of wine being more than acceptable alternative. Forecast confirmed strong wind coming and we planned to sit it out at Lochmaddy.
Thursday 18th July Forecast S-SE 3-5 vNW 2-3 then S 4-6 Stornaway HW 17:54
Plan – Loch Skipport to Lochmaddy
We made an early start based on evening’s forecast. Pouring rain and bad visibility made retrieving the well dug in anchor an epic, the cleaning in particular was labour intensive for Michael while Viola gently circled the wizard pool a few times. Plotted route was good because of lack of visibility. Swell was uncomfortable on the helm as wind increased. Initially genoa only with wind in 20s, then gybed and better angle to sea. Wind lightened and rain diminished so main out, but still very rolly with the swell. It was good to get to the Lochmaddy entrance and we tied up in 2nd place on the single pier, on the windward side as nothing available on other. It was smaller than expected, just by the Calmac jetty. However only place near by where we could sit out the wind with some protection from the land. There were 7 boats in the end. We went out to the Lochmaddy hotel and had scallops, salmon pate and lobsters – a real treat! Then a very quiet, still night.
Friday 19th July Forecast SW 6-7
Plan – day on North Uist
Looking at the map the North East looked most inviting but a call with Francis reminded us that in strong winds you want the wind behind you going home – so we planned for the South West instead. First a visit to the excellent Arts centre hosting the CalMac museum, we enjoyed bacon rolls in the café and browsing round the art exhibition. However we eventually set off on our ride, into the wind and rain. It was tough going. Sometimes the old road ran in parallel so we took to that to loose the traffic. Eventually we reached the far coast but the beach was not that inviting. The Hebridean Smokery was and we got scallops and pate for our stores. The return was fantastic! With the wind behind it was a delight. We called into the Langass Hotel for tea, cakes and warmth, and they welcomed us with open arms even though we looked like drowned rats. We became increasingly convinced we were looking at the backview of a friend of our youth but felt far too dirty to interrupt so crept away instead and visited Fionn’s People, a great standing stone circle just beyond. The wind swept us back to Lochmaddy, although we stopped to get eggs from a croft and a few provisions from the shop. They kindly helped us with change for the marina washing machine which only takes £2 or 50p coins as still set up for old £1 coins. Yet the shower takes cards! After a shower we chatted to a neighbouring boat and met Jane – who Michael remembered had been an instructor on Canary Sail in 2011 when we did our Day Sailor qualifications. They were on their way to St Kilda. We supped on Kiffer’s layered tomatoes, spinach, cream and eggs with Hebridean smoked salmon. Then we had the courage to approach our possible friend and it was him! Not seen for 40 years! And he was sailing with a friend of my brother. Small world! An unquiet night in howling wind.
Saturday 20th July Forecast SW vNW F5 -> 3-4 Rain
Plan – Lochmaddy to Duntulm, Port Erisco, Skye
A misty and drizzly start but the strong winds had passed. We motored out of harbour, briefly spotting a bottlenose dolphin and calf near the entrance. We fetched northwards towards the Cope Passage to gain a good angle for the north of Skye, taking into account the strong tidal streams. We headed for Waternish with wind on the tail and got the spinnaker up and held it most of the way across, gybing as necessary, until the wind got down to about 6 knots. We saw dolphins twice; 7 the first time, then 4, but we were not going fast enough to be entertaining. Big tides at the entrance to Duntulm at the very north of Skye made getting in behind the island tricky, but once past the entrance rocks it was quiet and lovely. We anchored close to the sheer island and took a line ashore, then went early to bed – exhausted. Woken by anchor alarm at 11pm. The wind had turned and our angle of line ashore was not great enough so we were alarmingly close. So we dropped the shore line, re-anchored and reattached our shore line, the local seals raided an amazing song of protest at being disturbed from their rest – fantastic squeals and intolerant grunts. (We later visited Duntulm from the land in late October, exploring the castle and the headlands)
Sunday 21st July Forecast W 3-4 Ullapool HW 07:52
Plan – Duntulm to Acarsaid Mor, Rona
Early start because of tides. Battery remains a worry so engine on whilst retrieving shore line and anchor, which came up clean! Motoring out into the brisk wind between the rocks was challenging but once the sails were up she flew round the northern most point of Skye, with the tide, occasionally reaching 9 knots over the ground. The cliffs were enormous and the hills of the Quirang were extraordinary in the sunshine. A glorious sail, gradually becoming close hauled as we approached Rona. A somewhat intimidating approach but the directions were good and we picked up a mooring in the lovely scenic bay. We went ashore and walked to the highest point and round various townships and red post marked woodland trails. A very interesting museum in the middle of nowhere plus fish and venison to buy from an honesty fridge. Pressure cooked cauliflower cheese for supper.
Monday 22nd July Forecast E 1-2 Sunny Ullapool HW 08:34
Plan – Rona to Kyle of Lochalsh
Early start for tides in glorious sunshine and no wind. Through Caolas Mor the set course was along the northern perimeter of a submarine exercise area , but at 8am they announced no activity so we motored straight for Crowlin Island. An amazing pod of dolphins were playing around in the sunshine. We had turned on autopilot and sadly this meant we drove through a large patch of weed, part of which wrapped around our prop. Engine astern freed most of it. Kept a better eye out after that. Shooting the Skye Bridge was exciting even if a lot more clearance than Ballachulish. The pontoons at Kyle were small with no electricity, water or any facilities, as management had failed and Highland Council were just taking over, but there were shops in walking distance and the harbour to view. Out came the bikes – first over the bridge to set foot on Skye – under and over on the same day. Then over the hills to Plockton, and very hilly it was. Quick look at the dinghies at the sailing club ( a couple of nice looking Flying Fifteens), then a nice tea and cake in the hotel waterfront gardens to fortify us for the return trip. Back in Kyle Michael got fuel from the garage while Viola stocked up at the very helpful Co-op. Rona smoked haddock in remains of cauliflower cheese worked well.
Tuesday 23rd July Forecast W – WSW variable, maybe 3 later. Ullapool HW 09:16
Plan – Kyle to Mallaig
Another glorious sunny windless morning! We were given a tour of our neighbours Nauticat 331 which he sails single-handed. Very tidy, comfy and expensive but Viola opined that it is not really a sailing boat. Departed with the tide at 10am for the Kyle Rhea narrows which we were wafted thtough at great speed, 10.3 over the ground at one point, through amazing little whirlpools. Glad that there was no wind in the mix. Took avoiding action for the Kyle Rhea ferry but otherwise a wonderfully scenic and peaceful passage. Great views of the Cuillin and Knoydart hills. Berthed at Maillaig in sunshine and did laundry and ablutions. Nice drink at the Garden café, then Rona venison, green beans and French lentils, followed by raspberrie. First connection to shore power since Loch Boisdale so did our best to ram some kwh into No. 2 battery.
Wednesday 24th July Forecast SW light, > SE 2-3-4 Oban HW 08:34
Plan – Maillaig to Loch Kentra Coll
Left Mallaig in very little wind. After a while there was enough to motor sail, then proper sailing in F4. Plan changed to go to Coll as angle was excellent. The wind kept building – first 1 reef in main, then 2 and when we hit F6 a reef in the genoa and kept a steady 7 knots, to the delight of a pod of dolphins – breaching and diving under the boat for ages. The Arinagour moorings were deserted. We soon found out why as the wind direction sent in vicious waves producing corkscrew rolling until the wind eased and veered. A tasty corn beef hash helped morale along with a curious seal which would bob up like a synchronised swimmer and snort at us,.
Thursday 25th July Forecast S 3-5, Showers
Plan – day on Coll
A somewhat misty and drizzly day did not deter. We decided to hire bike rather than transport our folding ones in Foggy – too risky. We started out for the north of the island. An amazing amount of cars, possibly from the ferry. We met most twice, as they overtook and then returned. A chilly picnic on the machair with some inquisitive calves and then back to the south, into the wind. We climbed Ben Hogh, the highest hill and then called at the Hebridean Centre of Project Trust where we had a very friendly welcome. They even phoned the Maclean-Bristols to arrange tea as they love meeting old volunteers. A tricky bike over very sandy machair crossed the island to the castle. We were given an excellent tea and enjoyed reminiscences. Then back to the boat. We were so wet we took the opportunity to do some deck cleaning before going to the hotel for wonderful showers and a very good dinner there. Some trouble sleeping with the mooring bumping our bow. We tied a fender to it horizontally which helped a bit.
Friday 26th July Forecast SW 3-5 > w-sw 3-5 showers, thundery Oban HW 09:54
Plan – Coll to Loch Drumbuie
It was a slightly misty morning but a good wind for broad reaching and then running as we headed for the Sound of Mull. We gybed in towards Maclean’s nose to get a decent angle, avoiding the Stirks. We had a wonderful, peaceful anchorage with just a handful of other boats dotted about, very widely spaced. And best of all – a still night!
Saturday 27th July Forecast SE-SW 2-3 Oban HW 10:39
Plan – Loch Drumbuie to Loch Aline
As it was a very still morning we did some work hoisting the spinnaker sock whilst at anchor and working out the wrinkles so that we would be good to go for West Highland Week passage races. Devised a bungy cord and rope system to pin the sock to the foredeck so it should be possible to do a pre-start hoist of the sock to ensure all is in order then leave all sheets and halyard in place on drop so that repeat hoists are easy. Once in the sound the wind was F1-2 (if we were lucky) so we did some real spinnaker sailing to test the theory. So far so good! Wind died and we motored the rest of the way to a very peaceful mooring. Took the dinghy over to Artornish House and walked round the extensive gardens. Delicious sweet potato dahl with courgettes and leeks.
Sunday 28th July Forecast S-SW 3-5 Oban HW 11:31
Plan – Loch Aline to Dunstaffnage
After another peaceful night we enjoyed lovely hot showers in the morning and picked some mint from the communal herb garden. Then we set off for Dunstaffnage. Quite a nice breeze in the Sound so we had a decent sail to the Lismore Light, taking a tack into just under Duart Castle. Then the wind faded as we crossed the Firth of Lorn. We headed for our allocated berth only to find it occupied by the boat that arrived just ahead of us! However we were found another berth much more convenient for the shore. We biked into Oban, over the hills to Ganavan, then round the coast by Dunollie Castle. A spot of shopping, then ice creams before the trip back. Store cupboard supper was pasta with tinned mackerel in a piri piri sauce – very tasty.
Tomorrow we will meet up with Lucy and Keiran and take part in our first West Highland Week – all very much unknown from how good we will be as hosts on board boat to what the starts will be like. We have had the most amazing 4 weeks on board Misty, working together on improving our sailing and management of a boat. Some good winds, some sunshine, some cold and wind and rain – but all of it good. Will definitely do again.
